Let me introduce you to Dili.
The best time to meet Dili is in the early morning, when the
city is still bathed in shade. At 6am, the sun waits behind the baked hills
surrounding the town. People are sweeping the streets, walking to work, loading
trucks. The fruit and vegetable market, which stretches along the foreshore, has
already been set up - probably hours before. Spherical watermelons lie beside perfect
piles of papayas, pineapples and green mangos. Bananas are short and straight,
and sold in huge bunches. If you pay $2.50 for a bunch, that’s too much.
You might also see some fishermen returning to shore with
the day’s catch – fish almost as long as my arm are hung in the cool shade of trees.
As the locals go about their morning routines, expats whiz by on expensive mountain
bikes or run past in colour-coordinated sports gear. A group of Australian army
personnel straggle past, on the tail end of some hellish morning exercise
routine.
Before long, the sun surfaces over the hills. Dili in the
day is hot, bright and punctuated by the sounds of cars and motorbikes
backfiring. In the morning, for a little while at least, it’s a good time to
say hello.
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